The internationally renowned watch media Hodinkee selected the best high-end watches at the Basel Watch Fair in 2018, followed by the independent watch brand Akrivia’s chronometer enamel-faced small seconds, the Rolex Rainbow Circle Daytona 116595RBOW, and the independent watch brand Voutilainen’s reverse watch. Slow return to GMT, Japan Grand Seiko’s VFA adjusted platinum three-hand, Patek Philippe Nautilus perpetual calendar and Patek Philippe Salmon Face Ref.5270P perpetual calendar chronograph.
Among these six watches, the one that attracts the most attention among watch lovers is Rolex’s Rainbow Di, whose gradient gemstones on the bezel are highly recognizable.
At the Basel Watch Fair in 2012, Rolex launched the first generation of Rainbow Daytona, model 116598RBOW, where RBOW is the abbreviation of “Rainbow” in English. Its basic configuration is similar to Daytona’s regular precious metal version. The movements all use Rolex’s own Cal.4130 mechanical chronograph movement. The most significant difference is that the original digital speedometer outer ring is removed and replaced by a gem ring. The colors of these gems change regularly, similar to a rainbow. At the same time, the case lugs and shoulders are inlaid with round diamonds. Discount replica watch.
After a short period of production, this 116598RBOW was discontinued. It was too difficult to assemble such a circle of gemstones. Even more difficult was that this small-scale mass-production watch required many circles. Rolex stopped this model after running out of its graduated gemstone stock. In 2017, Rolex launched a yacht with a gem ring without a gradient transition effect.
In comparison, Caihongdi is undoubtedly more precious. Therefore, the first-generation Rainbow Daytona’s price will naturally rise in the secondary market. The brand new and unused 116598RBOW is listed for sale at more than 1.8 million yuan. Compared with the previous pricing, it has more than doubled.
I initially thought that Rolex would wait to launch a follow-up Rainbow Di quickly. I never expected the second-generation Rainbow Di with model number 116595RBOW to be released in 2018.
Compared with the first generation, the 2018 Rainbow Di has three main changes: dial scale, pointer color, and case material.
The most significant change is the dial scale.
The first-generation Rainbow Di dial used square scales commonly known as “big diamonds.” The 56 round-cut diamonds inlaid on the lugs and crown shoulder guards EchoEcho the scales instead of the 36 rainbow gradients on the outer ring. Square gemstone.
In the second generation, Rolex removed the large square diamond scales and replaced them with bar-shaped gemstone scales. What’s even more valuable is that the arrangement of these gemstone scales also shows a gradient effect corresponding to the color of the gradient gemstones on the outer ring.
At the same time, the originally red-painted hands were changed to black. When you see this watch for the first time, your eyes will focus on the colorful outer ring and scales and will not be distracted by the shining diamonds and eye-catching red hands. Influence.
Another noticeable change is the material of the case. The first generation of Caihongdi was available in 18K gold and 18K platinum configurations, and the second generation switched to rose gold. Although they are also alloys based on gold, their popularity in the primary and secondary markets is also because of their different colors. Generally speaking, rose gold > yellow gold > platinum. Rose gold with a rosy color aligns more with modern people’s aesthetics. 18K gold may be considered too old-fashioned by watch friends, while 18K white gold is considered too low-key and difficult to distinguish from ordinary steel models. Come.
The color of 18K rose gold is mainly affected by its ingredients. Rolex launched an exclusive “Eternal Rose Gold” in 2005 and obtained a patent. Compared with ordinary rose gold, eternal rose gold has a richer color with a slight blue tint. At the same time, thanks to the addition of platinum and rhodium, the chemical properties of eternal rose gold are more stable and not prone to “gold rust.”
The new Rainbow Di 116595RBOW uses this eternal rose gold material that is beautiful and practical.
The original Rainbow Daytona is hard to find, so many later modified versions are circulating. Although the photos look similar, the physical differences still exist.
The essence of the Rainbow Daytona lies in the outer ring of gemstones with gradient colors.
At the very beginning, the jewelry setter will work with the watch designer to determine the layout and tone of the gemstones. Although natural gemstones cannot be precisely the same, Rolex’s jewelry purchasing department selects and matches them from tens of thousands of gemstones. The 36 stones have the most coordinated color gradient transitions. The most challenging thing is that the Rainbow Daytona is a small-scale mass-production model. It requires not just one set of gradient gemstones but at least dozens of sets to produce a corresponding number of watches. Swiss replica website.
According to the initial layout and design, the final gradient pattern of the outer rings of all Rainbow Daytonas is close. The simplest way to identify it is to look at the color of the gemstones in several key positions. The original rainbow circle is “red at the top, blue at the bottom, purple on the left and yellow on the right.”
Later modified versions often have less stringent requirements and cannot achieve the standard color layout of Rolex’s original factory. In addition, even though some later changed rainbow circles and noticed the color of gemstones in several key positions, the gradient transitions between them were not natural and smooth, and sudden breaks in color often occurred.
There are four standard inlay techniques on watches and clocks, namely “bead inlay,” “prong inlay,” “bezel inlay,” and “rail inlay.” The Rainbow Di outer ring uses a “rail setting.” As the name suggests, there is a track on the base of the outer ring made of precious metal, and the gemstones are fixedly set in the track.
In addition to strict requirements on the color of the 36 trapezoidal gemstones, there are also regulations on their size. Rolex only allows gemstones to vary in size within two-hundredths of a millimeter, about a quarter of the diameter of a human hair. Only in this way can these trapezoidal gemstones form a perfect ring tightly on the track. In later modified versions, there will be small gaps between gems and between gems and rails.
When the gems are placed into the outer ring track, in addition to considering the gaps between the jewels, the jewelry setter also needs to consider the height and angle of the top table of each gem. Looking at the original Rainbow Di from the side, we will find that the jewels are all on the same plane.
The later modified version only needs to have a gradient effect on the front of the rainbow circle, and there are no strict requirements on the side. Therefore, when you look at it from another angle, you will find that the rainbow circle gems modified later are uneven, which will not only affect the beauty of the side but also reduce the overall refraction effect of the rainbow circle.
Of course, only some modified Rainbow Di outer ring gemstones on the market are well-graded and inlaid, making it difficult for ordinary watch lovers to tell the difference. But there is one detail on the original Rainbow Di dial that no one can copy.
Rolex uses ‘Gold Crystals’ technology on the three chronograph subdials. The dial will appear layered like a widmanstaffen-pattern Wedman cross-grained nickel-iron meteorite. When the watch is shaken, ‘Gold Crystals’ The irregular patterns will be refracted due to different light and appear bright and dark. The later modified Caihongdi used fake dials, and the patterns on them were painted on, which was very rigid.
In addition, the gold shell of the original Caihongdi is slightly different from the ordinary version. When we look at it from the front, we will find that the red line of the outer contour of the lugs and shoulder pads does not overlap with the blue line of the bezel, and many ordinary Daytonas with added diamonds are modified. The blue line here will cover the red line.
If the blue line covers the red line, it can be inferred that the watch is a later modification. However, if the blue line does not cover the red line, it cannot be assumed that it is the original rainbow ring.
Although there are only three changes, the final effect is praiseworthy and stunning. It is far superior to the later modified version and even better than the old model. In particular, the large diamond scales on the dial have been changed to elongated strips of gemstone material, making the “rich” atmosphere much lighter.
Series: Daytona
Engine: Rolex Calibre 2836/2813
Dial Color: Black Dial
Gender: Men’s
Case Color: Rose Gold-tone
Band Width: 20mm
Model: 116595RBOW
Brand: Rolex